A fish recipe worth its salt

Its ubiquity and low price have made this product an afterthought in our kitchens. At one time it was a valuable commodity; now it’s something we are not ashamed to ask a neighbor for a cup of, with no intention of giving it back.

What am I talking about? Let me give you some hints: it is, along with water, essential for living. It’s the only rock that humans can eat, and its uses include keeping colorful veggies colorful when we boil them, making it easier to whip cream, removing stains, keeping cut flowers fresh, melting ice from the roads, and on and on.

Of course I am talking about salt.

I’m not writing an essay about salt. It’s been done (I recommend “Salt: A World History, by Mark Kurlansky). But I am going to tell you about a technique that we use in Spain for cooking only with salt.

With my editor’s permission, our November issue includes two recipes, one for fish and one for pork, using the same technique. These techniques were featured on one of my favorite cooking shows, La Pera Limonera (if you can read Spanish, Google them and get their recipes; they are just fantastic.): “Javier, Daniel, va por ustedes.”

Salt-Encrusted Fish (oven version - serves four) Salt-Encrusted Pork (oven version - serves four)

Ingredients:
2 kg of coarse salt (sea salt is best)
2 big bream or any similar-sized fish (a half kilogram each, more or less)
Optional: black pepper, rosemary, lemon

Cooking time: 200 C, 25 minutes
Ingredients:
1 kg. pork
2 kg of coarse salt (sea salt is best)
Optional: black pepper, rosemary, etc.

Cooking time: 200 C, 15 minutes
Salt-Encrusted Fish (microwave version) Salt-Encrusted Pork (microwave version)

Ingredients:
Enough salt to bury the fish
1 bream or any similar fish (a half kilogram or so)
Optional: black pepper, rosemary, lemon

Cooking time: max. power, 15 minutes
Ingredients:
1 kg. pork
2 kg of salt
Optional: black pepper, rosemary, etc.

Cooking time: max power, 8 minutes

Technique: On a metal tray, make a bed of salt. Wash the fish with water and place it on the bed, scales, guts and all. Bury the fish with the rest of the salt (you can add some spices for extra flavor; it is up to you), and sprinkle some water on top to give the whole thing a little moisture. The salt is going to create a hard coat that will absorb the fat of the fish and keep it from direct contact with the heat.

When the salt starts to crack or you reach the cooking time, take the tray from the oven, break the crust and remove all salt from it. Serve the meat of the fish without skin or bones and garnish with some carrots or broccoli.

The technique with pork is the same. When you remove the cooked pork from the salt, cut it into very thin slices and serve it with veggies.